English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Já falei anteriormente sobre o método de aplicar o forro de empastar, que é um forro diferente do forro normal. O forro de empastar é normalmente um tecido leve que se aplica do lado do avesso do tecido principal e destina-se a proporcionar-lhe mais resistência, firmeza e duração. Também pode servir para dar mais forma à peça, tornar opaco um tecido transparente e para reforçar as costuras. O forro de empastar é uma camada extra de tecido que se adiciona a cada peça de tecido antes de as coser. As duas camadas depois de juntas são tratadas como uma só. Ao empastar uma peça de vestuário deve-se ter em atenção a forma cilíndrica da peça depois de pronta. Clicar aqui para mais informações sobre este método.
Antes de mais, tive a preocupação de cortar as peças do molde de forma a que os motivos (bordados prateados) ficassem simétricos, o que não foi fácil porque o padrão não é regular. Tive que cortar com o tecido singelo e pegar no molde com a parte em tecido cortada presa com alfinetes e colocá-la novamente sobre o tecido de forma a que os padrões se sobrepusessem. No fim fica uma espécie de sanduíche com o molde no meio e o direito do tecido virado para fora:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkqt_GeunOiMCGvjNJId70I_K_HEpoiD5jMX6Nb7kARkNio5KwcVvMz90rkAUR8NuUMPUIalHgdrUuCtGeFQLqIIPR72p2-IPu4Va0ktbLqTunWuvSKWe6-ydI8UNECgf1m502TfR7c0/s320/img+001.jpg)
Podem ver como exemplo duas peças da manga perfeitamente simétricas:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvMfxJ8hjsjJishEQ4Yi9k5yHUjBGaZpJ_qUX9wrTNJxYsqULeoHaXH86Ac35UsphU8MYLlB0VLk2aINT7j6GBR41pEcguxv-14SKUDmWYU1rM5H9ZjWb9xIYQA6tsvMF1Ul3huYLie0/s320/img+002.jpg)
Deve-se transferir todas as marcações para o forro de empastar, antes de o “alinhavar” ao tecido principal. Não há perigo de utilizar o papel químico amarelo para isto, pois este forro nunca será visto (é escondido pelo forro normal). O forro de empastar que estou a utilizar é a organza de algodão que o Paco me enviou.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd51rLxqnF0scjz4INaASApI-kBSyZi5W5sSNjV1Xf8c3wj1nyL3Asjh9oBtcRjAYAmo3JPHu_65Bw-m0vnC7TOIlzwyXLJLNV6HOpC66BhrIphpghzGiLT0CEGRAxofRmES9aIokVbcM/s320/img+005.jpg)
Podem ver uma das partes da jaqueta (a frente) já empastada (foram empastadas as frentes, as costas e as mangas):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYgIr9kYU0m_ZneHFhIHsoAuMG2LJ-lRAyfC-F3Q4ZQIgzZBtTMufcZ-6mrxTGUW5aXAtKzP82TJ80mV6fhjaiXb3wFspyKh2dIasKUa0b6qsGgUWF6uEe4OibNn7luOBCVK34XWijNc/s320/img+007.jpg)
E já agora os botões e o forro que escolhi:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEbHrtyuCxILOq_LTCrXn2wpKoS6fFcY3iM7z8wDQdKwlvAxOSXNBLG3kaf6qSO4AfJj-AhyUjzkJtDPMdOxXriZOU1GGPE4CnIL8tFv8pHrlwRcgX4C8W6t_aP6k0VMOfRR8SkB5ZeE/s320/img+009.jpg)
Finalmente, um enorme agradecimento ao Paco; devo-lhe o molde, a organza de algodão que estou a usar, os chumaços que vou aplicar e, não bastando tudo isto, o meu querido amigo ainda me enviou mais uma caixa cheia de surpresas, incluindo (vejam só) uma amostra de lapela trabalhada ao estilo alfaiate em veludo de algodão para me ajudar a ver como devo fazer no casaco de veludo:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJeq2nvbkxApY-DXhgQjFf5446y5an3vSbGOjXPYBllyrxkYyHKKJ8gjCY4R2ihgHa3NBwoHt8Cfwuc1FEudssno_3KMiQwzb6D3NcCnoLshsWbb7Fs20T5pcbxsFypNhurpjBs8_Wuc/s320/img+022.jpg)
Não tenho palavras para agradecer tudo isto! Sinto-me muito afortunada por receber tanto carinho dos meus amigos! Paco, muchas gracias, nunca olvidaré este gesto tan noble y generoso!
Antes de mais, tive a preocupação de cortar as peças do molde de forma a que os motivos (bordados prateados) ficassem simétricos, o que não foi fácil porque o padrão não é regular. Tive que cortar com o tecido singelo e pegar no molde com a parte em tecido cortada presa com alfinetes e colocá-la novamente sobre o tecido de forma a que os padrões se sobrepusessem. No fim fica uma espécie de sanduíche com o molde no meio e o direito do tecido virado para fora:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkqt_GeunOiMCGvjNJId70I_K_HEpoiD5jMX6Nb7kARkNio5KwcVvMz90rkAUR8NuUMPUIalHgdrUuCtGeFQLqIIPR72p2-IPu4Va0ktbLqTunWuvSKWe6-ydI8UNECgf1m502TfR7c0/s320/img+001.jpg)
Podem ver como exemplo duas peças da manga perfeitamente simétricas:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvMfxJ8hjsjJishEQ4Yi9k5yHUjBGaZpJ_qUX9wrTNJxYsqULeoHaXH86Ac35UsphU8MYLlB0VLk2aINT7j6GBR41pEcguxv-14SKUDmWYU1rM5H9ZjWb9xIYQA6tsvMF1Ul3huYLie0/s320/img+002.jpg)
Deve-se transferir todas as marcações para o forro de empastar, antes de o “alinhavar” ao tecido principal. Não há perigo de utilizar o papel químico amarelo para isto, pois este forro nunca será visto (é escondido pelo forro normal). O forro de empastar que estou a utilizar é a organza de algodão que o Paco me enviou.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd51rLxqnF0scjz4INaASApI-kBSyZi5W5sSNjV1Xf8c3wj1nyL3Asjh9oBtcRjAYAmo3JPHu_65Bw-m0vnC7TOIlzwyXLJLNV6HOpC66BhrIphpghzGiLT0CEGRAxofRmES9aIokVbcM/s320/img+005.jpg)
Podem ver uma das partes da jaqueta (a frente) já empastada (foram empastadas as frentes, as costas e as mangas):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYgIr9kYU0m_ZneHFhIHsoAuMG2LJ-lRAyfC-F3Q4ZQIgzZBtTMufcZ-6mrxTGUW5aXAtKzP82TJ80mV6fhjaiXb3wFspyKh2dIasKUa0b6qsGgUWF6uEe4OibNn7luOBCVK34XWijNc/s320/img+007.jpg)
E já agora os botões e o forro que escolhi:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEbHrtyuCxILOq_LTCrXn2wpKoS6fFcY3iM7z8wDQdKwlvAxOSXNBLG3kaf6qSO4AfJj-AhyUjzkJtDPMdOxXriZOU1GGPE4CnIL8tFv8pHrlwRcgX4C8W6t_aP6k0VMOfRR8SkB5ZeE/s320/img+009.jpg)
Finalmente, um enorme agradecimento ao Paco; devo-lhe o molde, a organza de algodão que estou a usar, os chumaços que vou aplicar e, não bastando tudo isto, o meu querido amigo ainda me enviou mais uma caixa cheia de surpresas, incluindo (vejam só) uma amostra de lapela trabalhada ao estilo alfaiate em veludo de algodão para me ajudar a ver como devo fazer no casaco de veludo:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJeq2nvbkxApY-DXhgQjFf5446y5an3vSbGOjXPYBllyrxkYyHKKJ8gjCY4R2ihgHa3NBwoHt8Cfwuc1FEudssno_3KMiQwzb6D3NcCnoLshsWbb7Fs20T5pcbxsFypNhurpjBs8_Wuc/s320/img+022.jpg)
Não tenho palavras para agradecer tudo isto! Sinto-me muito afortunada por receber tanto carinho dos meus amigos! Paco, muchas gracias, nunca olvidaré este gesto tan noble y generoso!
I have addressed the subject of underlining before. The underlining is an extra layer of fabric that serves several purposes. Normally is a sheer fabric that is “mounted” on the wrong side of the fashion fabric and it adds more resistance, firmness and duration. It can also serve to reinforce and cushion the seams and to prevent see-through. After mounting the underlining, the two layers are treated as one. The turn of the cloth should also be minded when mounting. Click here for a previous article on this subject.
When cutting the fashion fabric I tried to obtain balance and symmetry, aligning the swirl motives so every piece is symmetric to its twin. This wasn’t easy because the fabric pattern wasn’t regular and I had to use extra fabric and a single layer layout. After cutting one piece (pinning the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric) I picked the piece with the pattern still pinned and placed it again on the wrong side of the fabric, the pattern facing down, so I could align the patterns (I had to turn each piece to the opposite direction so the swirls’ motion would also be symmetrical). In the end I got this “sandwich” with the pattern in between and the right sides of the fabric facing out:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkqt_GeunOiMCGvjNJId70I_K_HEpoiD5jMX6Nb7kARkNio5KwcVvMz90rkAUR8NuUMPUIalHgdrUuCtGeFQLqIIPR72p2-IPu4Va0ktbLqTunWuvSKWe6-ydI8UNECgf1m502TfR7c0/s320/img+001.jpg)
As an example here are the two front sleeves, perfectly symmetrical:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvMfxJ8hjsjJishEQ4Yi9k5yHUjBGaZpJ_qUX9wrTNJxYsqULeoHaXH86Ac35UsphU8MYLlB0VLk2aINT7j6GBR41pEcguxv-14SKUDmWYU1rM5H9ZjWb9xIYQA6tsvMF1Ul3huYLie0/s320/img+002.jpg)
All the markings should be transferred to the underlining and there’s no problem in using the yellow tracing paper and the tracing wheel for this purpose (the underlining will be hidden inside by the regular lining). For the underlining I’m using the cotton organza that Paco sent me:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd51rLxqnF0scjz4INaASApI-kBSyZi5W5sSNjV1Xf8c3wj1nyL3Asjh9oBtcRjAYAmo3JPHu_65Bw-m0vnC7TOIlzwyXLJLNV6HOpC66BhrIphpghzGiLT0CEGRAxofRmES9aIokVbcM/s320/img+005.jpg)
Here you can see one of the fronts already mounted (I mounted the fronts, backs and sleeves):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYgIr9kYU0m_ZneHFhIHsoAuMG2LJ-lRAyfC-F3Q4ZQIgzZBtTMufcZ-6mrxTGUW5aXAtKzP82TJ80mV6fhjaiXb3wFspyKh2dIasKUa0b6qsGgUWF6uEe4OibNn7luOBCVK34XWijNc/s320/img+007.jpg)
And I believe I haven’t shown you the buttons and the lining yet:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEbHrtyuCxILOq_LTCrXn2wpKoS6fFcY3iM7z8wDQdKwlvAxOSXNBLG3kaf6qSO4AfJj-AhyUjzkJtDPMdOxXriZOU1GGPE4CnIL8tFv8pHrlwRcgX4C8W6t_aP6k0VMOfRR8SkB5ZeE/s320/img+009.jpg)
Finally, I want to send a HUGE THANK YOU to Paco; I owe him the pattern, the underlining, the shoulder pads and, as this isn’t too much already, my dear friend also sent me another package full of surprises, including (I couldn’t believe this) a sample tailored velvet lapel, so I could see with my own eyes how a tailored lapel should look like on my velvet coat!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJeq2nvbkxApY-DXhgQjFf5446y5an3vSbGOjXPYBllyrxkYyHKKJ8gjCY4R2ihgHa3NBwoHt8Cfwuc1FEudssno_3KMiQwzb6D3NcCnoLshsWbb7Fs20T5pcbxsFypNhurpjBs8_Wuc/s320/img+022.jpg)
I lack the words to express my gratitude! I can only say that I feel so blessed for having such good friends around the world! Paco, muchas gracias, nunca olvidaré este gesto tan noble y generoso!
When cutting the fashion fabric I tried to obtain balance and symmetry, aligning the swirl motives so every piece is symmetric to its twin. This wasn’t easy because the fabric pattern wasn’t regular and I had to use extra fabric and a single layer layout. After cutting one piece (pinning the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric) I picked the piece with the pattern still pinned and placed it again on the wrong side of the fabric, the pattern facing down, so I could align the patterns (I had to turn each piece to the opposite direction so the swirls’ motion would also be symmetrical). In the end I got this “sandwich” with the pattern in between and the right sides of the fabric facing out:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkqt_GeunOiMCGvjNJId70I_K_HEpoiD5jMX6Nb7kARkNio5KwcVvMz90rkAUR8NuUMPUIalHgdrUuCtGeFQLqIIPR72p2-IPu4Va0ktbLqTunWuvSKWe6-ydI8UNECgf1m502TfR7c0/s320/img+001.jpg)
As an example here are the two front sleeves, perfectly symmetrical:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvMfxJ8hjsjJishEQ4Yi9k5yHUjBGaZpJ_qUX9wrTNJxYsqULeoHaXH86Ac35UsphU8MYLlB0VLk2aINT7j6GBR41pEcguxv-14SKUDmWYU1rM5H9ZjWb9xIYQA6tsvMF1Ul3huYLie0/s320/img+002.jpg)
All the markings should be transferred to the underlining and there’s no problem in using the yellow tracing paper and the tracing wheel for this purpose (the underlining will be hidden inside by the regular lining). For the underlining I’m using the cotton organza that Paco sent me:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd51rLxqnF0scjz4INaASApI-kBSyZi5W5sSNjV1Xf8c3wj1nyL3Asjh9oBtcRjAYAmo3JPHu_65Bw-m0vnC7TOIlzwyXLJLNV6HOpC66BhrIphpghzGiLT0CEGRAxofRmES9aIokVbcM/s320/img+005.jpg)
Here you can see one of the fronts already mounted (I mounted the fronts, backs and sleeves):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYgIr9kYU0m_ZneHFhIHsoAuMG2LJ-lRAyfC-F3Q4ZQIgzZBtTMufcZ-6mrxTGUW5aXAtKzP82TJ80mV6fhjaiXb3wFspyKh2dIasKUa0b6qsGgUWF6uEe4OibNn7luOBCVK34XWijNc/s320/img+007.jpg)
And I believe I haven’t shown you the buttons and the lining yet:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEbHrtyuCxILOq_LTCrXn2wpKoS6fFcY3iM7z8wDQdKwlvAxOSXNBLG3kaf6qSO4AfJj-AhyUjzkJtDPMdOxXriZOU1GGPE4CnIL8tFv8pHrlwRcgX4C8W6t_aP6k0VMOfRR8SkB5ZeE/s320/img+009.jpg)
Finally, I want to send a HUGE THANK YOU to Paco; I owe him the pattern, the underlining, the shoulder pads and, as this isn’t too much already, my dear friend also sent me another package full of surprises, including (I couldn’t believe this) a sample tailored velvet lapel, so I could see with my own eyes how a tailored lapel should look like on my velvet coat!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJeq2nvbkxApY-DXhgQjFf5446y5an3vSbGOjXPYBllyrxkYyHKKJ8gjCY4R2ihgHa3NBwoHt8Cfwuc1FEudssno_3KMiQwzb6D3NcCnoLshsWbb7Fs20T5pcbxsFypNhurpjBs8_Wuc/s320/img+022.jpg)
I lack the words to express my gratitude! I can only say that I feel so blessed for having such good friends around the world! Paco, muchas gracias, nunca olvidaré este gesto tan noble y generoso!
20 comments:
Wonderful gifts Tany, that will be an awesome jacket again. Those buttons are tdf on that fabric.
Tany, that jacket will be beautiful!
Ohh your jacket is going to be beautiful!!!!!
I can't wait to see you jacket! I am sure it will be great.
Tany, just seeing these bits of the jacket, it appears it will be absolutely beautiful. The buttons are gorgeous and are a perfect match to your twirls! Wonderful and meaningful gifts from Paco.He is such a generous person:)
Oh, what perfectly matching buttons! And your laying out efforts are really paying off. It is going to look fab! And isn't Paco so generous?
Wonderful gifts from Paco! Your jacket is going to be amazing, dear Tany. Gros bisous.
Tany.- que bonitos botones para la chaqueta. Ahhh....gracias por tus amables palabras, el cariño te lo mereces por parte de todos, de veras, y lo mio solo es una pequeña contribución. Quedo ansioso por ver el resultado final de la chaqueta. Un abrazo y hasta pronto, Paco
Tany, gorgeous fabric and buttons! I can't wait to see it all finished. Great presents, too!
I love the fabric and buttons. I can't wait to see the jacket!
Tany,
Está a ficar lindíssima a jaqueta!
Tens sempre muito cuidado com os tecidos e de aplicares as melhores técnicas que conheces para embelezar ainda mais o que fazes (e também para fazer durar estas lindas roupas que fazes!).
Adoro este tecido! Em tons de cobre. Os botões são mesmos "rústicos" (de metal?) e lindíssimos. Uma excelente escolha!
Eu estou ansiosa para ver o resultado e acho engraçadíssimo o modelo ter sido desenhado pelo Paco e tu estares a fazer. Que orgulho para ambos! (e para mim também que sou vossa fã)
A amizade não tem fronteiras!
Beijinhos
Aqui estou eu novamente...
...estava a reparar nos botões maravilhosos...e vi que era propositado colocares a espiral e os botões ao lado!
Muito bem pensado e os botões muito bem escolhidos porque têm espirais...
..só mesmo tu Tany para pensares em todos os pormenores.
Beijinhos
Bem, tu mereces amigos destes, pois tu propria és uma grande amiga!
Estou a ver que a jaqueta está a andar e bem! Adorei todos os promenores em especial os botões que escolhes-te.
Bjs
Mónica
Looking forward to your jacket and Thanks for the detail post on underlining.
Your jacket will be wonderful! Paco is extremely generous and gracious. I've just sent him out a little suprise yesterday.
O casaco vai ficar fantástico!
Adorei os botões!
Beijinhos
What fantastic buttons! I look forward to seeing your jacket.
oh,, love this fabric
I could have sworn that I comment on this post before, anyway, I used your last bound button hole tutorial on my crop jacket this weekend, worked like a charm, I will never use another version, lol
thanks and take care
Tany, I'm so impressed by the care and thought you've put into the layout for the jacket. The finished product is just fabulous.
And I love that Paco sent you a whole padstitched and taped lapel. Looks like he also sent along some Hymo? Is that French Hymo? I'm really hopeing that after July 1 you'll put pics of this up on TGCSA. What a treasure.
Many hugs, I don't get to visit your blog (or any blogs) as often these days. Missing you.
Tiveste bom gosto na escolha do tecido,o molde do paco è lindissimo,e os presentes com tanto cariño è a cara dele,que bonita a amizade,parabens aos dois pelo bom gosto e generosidade.
besitos
ROSA
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